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    Corner Miters

    Nathi Tappan(nathitappan)
    posted to: Create Your Own Cabinetry

    Hi Sascha! 

    As I'm finally adding some shelving to my final project I wonder if I can tap into your woodworking advice?


    Supposedly a very easy build but since we just do this on the weekends here and there, a lot of "would it be better" questions show up.

    If it was just a render, a miter as it is would be simple and done. But since I plan to actually build these I wonder if a miter on a corner is feasible for assembly? Or is it better to add a halflap from the short shelf to sit "on top" of the long shelf? 

    I certainly like the look of a "continuous" miter, but am starting to think it's not real-life feasible?

    Also, on floating shelves, do you have a preference on using the rod/bracket style vs building a box around supports? That would definitely change my modeling should I choose to go the box route.

    Sorry if these questions fall out of scope for the course, but I figured I'd ask. 

    Reply
    • Sascha Feider replied

      Hi Nathi,

      A mitre joint in that corner is totally fine, provided you make a proper joint. You could either do a biscuit-, domino-, or feather joint to give it some good strength and you'll be good.

      For mounting them to the wall it depends a bit on the depth and thickness of the shelves. Personally I don't like the rod brackets, because they always sag. But you got a corner solution here, so they don't really work anyway.  For these you can just make a dado in the back of them and then cut two piece that fit in snug, which you can then screw on the wall and push the shelves on (if they're thick enough). Then secure in a few spots with finishing screws. The GRKs with the little trim head work great for that.

      You just have to make sure to fit it to the wonky wall first. 😉
      Additionally you should consider what you want to store on the shelves (weight). If you can give me the dimensions and what's going on top, I can narrow down the choices for ya.

      1 love
    • Nathi Tappan(nathitappan) replied

      Nice! Thanks Sascha! Not having the long rods definitely makes it feasible to mount something already mitered! 

      Would something that small be able to support a solid shelf plus items on top of it? I don't have anything that is a MUST be on it, but it's kind of a more permanent mount and would be nice to have options. Planters can get heavy with water, and we never know... if we could get say 35 to 50 pounds on it I doubt I'd need more. 

      Or maybe building the shelf as a plywood box instead of a thick 8/4... 

      If I were to extend the support you suggested more like this it would still allow for the miter to work, right? Instead of the tight clearance of rod brackets.

      We don't have measurements yet. Other than using real world dimensions for lumber (we're thinking at least 1.5in thick finished though, this project is literally going to help us figure out what do to in that corner). So I'll iterate a few ideas.


         

    • Sascha Feider replied

      Couple of things:
      - Yes, if you build and size it properly, it will hold quite a bit of weight, as it's distributing it around the corner. That being said it would have to be sized according to the dimensions of the shelf. For say a 8" (bah those units 😁) you'd want to go about 2" wide and use some good, long GRKs to secure to as many studs as you can find. Also it needs to be a proper, snug fit. If you can slide them on with a finger, it's no bueno.
      Example, though not hidden, but the concept is the same. Good fasteners and a bit of PL, because of IFC walls:

      - Ideally you don't want to make the shelves from solid wood, especially hardwood. Keep the weight of the shelves as low as possible to be able to put more stuff on top. Consider building a frame from light wood and then a box around from some nicely veneered plywood. Won't stop you from making a mitre corner.
      And would give you at least a nice, beefy 2" thickness.

      - If you go that route you could of course mount the frame to the wall first and then shove the box on it, but I find it easier to build a shelf with a mitre corner like this and then fasten it to the track on the wall.

      - Floating shelves usually are somewhere between 6" and 10" max deep, where 10 is already cutting it. If you need more depth for bigger planters I'd suggest moving away from floating shelves, otherwise you get too front heavy regardless or built method. Or move to some nice brackets with more support. So dimensions will help, once you figure out the base design.

      Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more info. 

      1 love
    • Nathi Tappan(nathitappan) replied

      It totally does help! It also helps me think a bit harder about the dimensions. Even if we are still exploring it won't hurt to be as realistic as we can! Thank you so much!

      1 love